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Metal
grey.
A
glimpse of Bilbao.
Drizzle.
Lead-like
clouds.
Graffiti.
I
look up in awe.
Playful
raindrops adorn
the
glass ceiling
of
the metro station:
a
magnificent dome,
a
fabulous work of engineering.
Steel-like
spaces,
concrete,
airy
passages,
simplicity.
The
most modern
metro
in the world,
the
boast of Bilbao,
knowing
reverse of the London
Underground.
The
dream of an English
architect.
I
look down.
I’m
hearing Caribbean voices,
familiar
words spelt in foreign accents,
the
cadences of urban dialects.
They
do not look like people from Bilbao.
An
Asian girl in a red leather coat asks me for directions.
She
wants to know the way to the museum.
I
point at the massive sign on the plastic-like wall of an office building.
I
tell her to turn left at the end of the road.
I
visualize a mammoth of titanium,
a startling work of architecture,
curvy
franchise, postindustrial setting for a perfume ad, millennial whim, Warhol.
Backpackers,
art dealers, Brad Pitt and James
Bond eat pintxos
in Bilbao.
The
largest modern art space in the world put this town on the map.
I
look around.
I
see an English pub, I smell tahini from a Turkish restaurant.
The
bus has stopped on the left hand side of the road.
I
realize
no
tube stop gets you near Guggenheim
Bilbao.
I
understand
a
dome of these dimensions wouldn’t fit
in
the narrow streets of Bilbao.
I
must admit
one
wouldn’t hear so many accents
one
wouldn’t see so many races
in
the narrow limits of Bilbao.
If
I turn round and walk,
the
tower
of
the Bankside power station
will
soon be in sight.
All
along,
I’ve
been facing
the
extension
of
the Jubilee
Line.
Metal
blue.
Award-winning
feat
of
the coolest place on earth
Lead-like
air.
Drizzle.
Southwark.
Tate
Modern.
A
glimpse of Bilbao. |

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